The Citadel
- Caitlin Roake
- Jul 16
- 5 min read
Trailhead: Bishop Pass
Elevation: 11,738 ft
Route: West Ridge
Difficulty: Class 2
I graduated from Emergency Medicine residency in June and immediately experienced grief over leaving California. I trolled recreation.gov for days and snagged a permit for Bishop pass into Dusy Basin. I've never been to Dusy basin despite hearing stories from GG's dad about endless lakes and towering peaks. I had no plan for what to do there and no partner. Topo maps seemed to suggest endless lines of peaks stretching out on both side of LeConte canyon, none of which I had visited. I'd be lying to say I didn't pick high points based on their names and photos. When I saw images of the dark spires of the Citadel I knew I needed to venture out there.
For me the beauty of the Sierra Nevada lies in its vastness and isolation. I've been casually climbing in the range since I was a teenager and there remain swaths of the range that I have never visited. Dusy basin lies on the west side of the Palisades, a 14,000 foot range of sharp and technical peaks. It is bordered on the north by the Inconsolable Range, and on the west by Le Conte canyon. I hiked alone up into the basin late one morning carrying about 30 pounds of camping gear and food. On my way over Bishop Pass, I walked through the graveyard of the mule deer herd that died en masse in 2017. At this point only bleached bones were left. After cresting the pass I descended into Dusy basin and wandered through the maze of lakes and wetlands attempting to find the least buggy campsite.
I had a list of peaks that interested me but I had neglected to calculate the distances or the elevation profiles of any of them, mostly just choosing based on "vibes" and how close they looked on the map. For my first peak I decided on the Citadel, as it appeared to be of middling distance and elevation gain from my camp. I knew almost nothing about it. Secor helpfully notes - West Ridge. Class 2. Ascend the ridge from Ladder Lake. There is nothing else in this entry. No discussion of how to get to Ladder Lake, or how to cross the Lake and associated creek, but I was undaunted.
The next day I jogged down a well maintained trail towards Le Conte canyon and the PCT. I carried a water bladder, about 1000 calories worth of food, a satellite communicator device, and a light jacket. Descending into Le Conte canyon I realized I had made a judgement error - the canyon was huge! And I would have to re-climb all 2500 vertical feet of it at the end of the day.
At the bottom of the canyon I picked up the PCT heading south along the King's River and ran towards the outlet of ladder creek. I'd pieced together some trip reports that suggested crossing the King's River just upstream of the creek was preferable. I found deadfall spanning the creek at this point, and started crossing carefully. With about 10 feet to go I slipped and fell in the river, soaking my shoes and pants. Maybe you are like me and have been told all your life not to get your feet wet in the wilderness. I am here to tell you that I get my feet wet all the time and am none the worse for it.
I wrung my socks out and started up the hill alongside Ladder Creek only to find horrific steep uphill bushwhacking through young aspen and manzanita. I tried crossing the creek multiple times but sadly must report it is all bad. Possibly the north side of the creek is better, and I likely would use this aspect if I was to return again as at least it is dry - on the south side, I repeatedly sunk into muddy plants up to my shins. Getting to ladder lake was no picnic either - I finally found a steep chute on the north side of the creek that cut through a very intimidating set of cliffs over which Ladder Creek cascaded down.
Upon reaching ladder lake I seriously considered turning around. I'd travelled about 8 miles in difficult and mountainous terrain, and now that I was at the lake, it was still not obvious how to reach the West Ridge of the Citadel. Cliffs and dense vegetation surrounded the lake on all sides. The best way to the West Ridge appeared to be to swim across ladder lake, but drowning in snow melt cold water was not on my tick list. Instead I picked my way around the north shore of the lake, only a few inches away from the thickets at times, until I had painstakingly reached the start of the climbing.
For all of my complaining, the climb, which took about 90 minutes round trip, was delightful. Upon gaining the ridge I walked along a high boardwalk facing into the depths of Le Conte canyon and bordered by the mountains of the Black Divide to my left. I saw no trace of humanity until I reached the summit register, which contained no entries from this year and only scant entries from prior years, including one by Peter Croft and another from a party including Katie Lambert.
I sat on the summit for a long time thinking. I wished I had come out to these lonely places more during my time in the Central Valley. I loved the way I had learned to move in the Sierra. When I first started climbing out here, the scree and boulders and brush frustrated me and exhausted my body. They still do, but the ease at which I move through them now is a testament to my body learning the ins and outs of this terrain. I've become quicker and lighter on my feet through this harsh ground. I have a sense for when a ridge will turn into cliffs and judgement on when slabs are too steep for the rubber on my shoes to stick. And I'm not sure if there are other places in the lower 48 that are quite as isolated as these remote peaks. This may just be California hubris talking of course. But after I left the PCT that day I'd seen not a trace at all of other humans - no cairns, no microtrash, no climber's trails.
As the day grew late I extricated myself my my perch on the Citadel and reversed my tracks back to the trail. I spent a few moments cooling my poor feet in the Kings River before climbing out of Le Conte canyon and back up to my temporary home in Dusy Basin. My notes from the day read - Climbed the Citadel today via the West Ridge 17 miles roundtrip and 6 hours from camp at Dusy Basin. Deer browsing in Le conte canyon. Didn't think about much of consequence.
Comments